Well Sewists. I need your help.
Sewing skirts and dresses is something I can do well, but pants (trousers) I have only sewn very lose culotte styles in the past. I am determined to get a slim fitting pant pattern that I can use as a base. I really liked the look of Burdastyle Magazine 02/2014 #129. (I sewed 38 at the waist to 40 at the hip and leg. I added 1.5cm SA, but ended up sewing the allowance at 1cm)
This is a pattern drafted for fabric with some stretch. I made my draft in a cotton twill with absoluetly no stretch at all. The muslin is almost identical in measurement to a pair of jeans I have that fit, but are snug. But Denim has a bit more give!
I'm certain if I had made these in a fabric with stretch they would be wearable, but I'd like a pattern that fits really well and I need your advice to help get the best draft from this starting point.
I'm sure there are those of you out there who sew trousers a lot and could offer some advice to help me adjust the pattern for non stretch fabric.
So, what are the issues? (those I can Identify)
Too tight in the lower thigh, just above my knee.
Too tight in the butt.
Too Tight over the calf.
Side seam pulling backwards and gaping pockets
I think there might be some Crotch issues as well, but some of those might resolve with the width issues.
Question is - do I just add at the side seams/ inseam? or do I need to do some slash and spread of the pattern - if so where?
I'd really appreciate it if you could offer any insight to help me resolve this.